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Introduction Before you breed boas and pythons you must first research the country of origin of the particular species you wish
to breed. This information is based on species originating from tropical regions. This method of breeding has been used to
success with a number of species from varying origins. For a more accurate replication of a snakes natural breeding cycle,
you may wish to look up climatological data online for the species you wish to breed. Environmental cues are necessary to induce copulation. The three factors we have found which contribute to successful
breeding attempts are: 1. Temperature manipulation Viable breedings have been accomplished by altering any one of these variables, on occasion by accident. It is now
commonly accepted that all three of these factors play a role in ensuring a productive breeding. It is imperative that the animals you wish to breed are 100% healthy before you begin cycling them. Make sure females
are carrying an appropriate amount of weight to enable them to not only nourish herself but also the foetus’ growing
in her body. Females usually fast for the duration of pregnancy and this can reduce the body weight after birth by 40%. Make
sure they have good fat reserves that will see her through this 6 month period. Respiratory infections are known to occur during cycling if these are noted abort the breeding effort, increase to
normal temperature over a period of a fortnight (either seek medical treatment upon finding the infection or after the temperature
has been raised, on occasion symptoms can subside when the temperature are increased to normal again.)
( The best control system we have found for this type of brumation is a series of thermostats made by a British company
called Microclimate International LTD. The Range is the DL Range, namely the DL1 ME and the DL2 ME. These thermostats utilise
microprocessors to give an unrivalled level of accuracy and the night time temperature setting is controlled over 30 minutes
so as not to plummet the snakes into the cold. The ‘ME’ bit means “Magic Eye” – this is a light
sensor which picks up on the ambient light level in the room. When the light level reduces to a cut off point the thermostat
then turns to night mode and lowers the temperature over the next 30 minutes to the base night time temperature.) You must have a thermostat to breed boids with any modicum of success. An unbridled light bulb and a heat pad are unsatisfactory
means to reproduce pythons & boas. Note the arrow in the centre of the brumation period, this is when the pair is introduced to one another (the animals
must be kept separately before this period). The pair will remain together for the remainder of the brumation period and the
raise in temperature returning to normality. (Some people introduce the male and then remove him on weekly rotation, the initial interest in the female is always
greatest in the first 48 hours.)
Graph 2 illustrates
how the light exposure in the snake room changes in correlation with the tempatures in graph 1. Although the snakes enjoy
a slightly warmer day it is noticeably shorter. As the nights grow cooler they also become longer. It is at these cooler temperatures
that the males will be practising sperm production in earnest. The females will also will develop follicles which will later
become ova. Light cycle
when used by itself has had mixed effects when trying to breed boids. When used with temperature cycle its effect increases
exponentially. When coupled with cooler nights at longer periods we have found that the snakes really respond to this. The perfect
setup for the snake room is to have non light emitting heat sources (such as ceramic bulbs so as not to confuse the light
sensors on the thermostats or the snakes!!!) with bright strip lights in the centre of the room which are coupled to timer
switches. This means that you are in control of both, the day time temp, night time temp and light cycle. Not being in control
really makes this whole exercise a bit if a lost cause.)
Caught the
act: When the animals
have been introduced and (hopefully) have been copulating you may notice a rather large swell on the Female. Don’t worry
she’s not going to pop (although it can look like this), this is called an ovulation. Ovulation is the sign of the follicles
maturing and becoming ova and moving down the body to an area where they can remain if they become fertilised. Ovulation is
not a sign of pregnancy but of receptivity to breeding attempts. All too often when speaking to people who have had problems
breeding boids its is because they took the ovulation as a pregnancy swell and removed the male before he could adequately
inseminate her. My male boas remain with the females up to 8 weeks after the female has ovulated. I hope this introduction to boid breeding has been useful. Thankyou Charles Thompson © Snakes’N’Adders
2006
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