SPECIES: White Lipped Python (D’Alberts, D’Albertis Python)

SCIENTIFIC NAME: Leiopython Albertissi

NOTES:

This species holds a somewhat mystical allure that has captured many an enthusiasts heart, including mine over the years. It is amazing that a predominantly bi-coloured snake- (black head with either a brown, rusty or golden colour body) can culture such affection. The secret to this alert snake’s popularity is the amazing iridescence caused by its polished scales. The scales are so flat that they fragment light into the primary colours and as a result are covered in rainbows of colour. The sight on exceptional animals is quite literally amazing.

To maintain as captive bred animals there are two stages to be taken into consideration.

1. Hatchling-Yearling

2. Yearling onwards

Babies of this species regardless of whether they are captive bred or not require permanently higher humidity than in later life. By keeping this species too dry a serious risk of respiratory infection is present. I remember reading information on this species years and years ago which clearly stated that for the first 2 months of the snakes life it was best to maintain them in a incubator, basically, as this was the only proven way to keep the neonates alive. Most common causes of death in youngsters was respiratory infection. Obviously care techniques have advanced since then. I maintain youngsters in 3-9ltr storage boxes dependant on size of the inhabitant. Substrate used is paper and a large (proportionally) water container provided at the cool end. A toilet roll inner is provided as a hide and they get along quite happily in there. They rarely refuse defrost mice for me, when maintained in this manner. In fact they feed with gusto, although there are the snake’s unusual habits to consider. As the snakes start feeding on animals which have fur, some examples of D’Albertis pythons re-gurge the fur from the carcass they have eaten. There is a tendency for new keepers to panic! – “Oh no my snake is throwing its food up”. Don’t panic its completely normal for the species. This species like all other Indonesian Python grows fast.

For at least the first year I would urge you to keep the snake in modest easily cleaned environments. Keep the humidity up and importantly keep the enclosure clean. Respiratory infections can also come about from bacteria build up (common in high humidity environments). The temperature you want to maintain this species at is around 30 Celsius at the warmest end; I maintain them at this temperature and do just fine. Lower temperatures may aid humidity but could spark the onset of a cold (respiratory infection).

So let’s suppose we have got a year under our belt with no major disasters. At a year of age I would expect a White Lipped Python that had been feeding well to be 24-30 inches in length (this may be conservative but I am no fan of power feeding). We need a viv to put the wee chap in. I personally, would opt for a glass tank. Exoterra© make a fantastic range of glass tanks, the size I would opt for would be 12”x12”x18” (WxDxH), we don’t need to offer too much room straight away as there are problems associated with maintaining humidity in larger tanks. The heater I would recommend would be a pre-wired lighting dome from t-rex with a 50w Heat-Glo infra red bulb. Not only does this look really neat it also does a fantastic job. Air flow is good as front mounted vents below the front doors of the vivarium, and the grill at the top make for good convection removing old heated air with fresh cool air. Thermostatic control of this unit is imperative; there are not many species as sensitive to temperatures as neonatal and juvenile D’Albertis Pythons. I would recommend a Microclimate DL1 ME©. These systems are run by microprocessors not micro-switches making them one of the most reliable systems out there. As the bulb emits deep red light the light cycle of the animal can be set by a bright light with the room you intend to keep the animal(s). There is a light sensor on the front of the thermostat which picks up when it is light or dark and you can set the night time drop accordingly. You can then be in full control of light cycle as well as day time high and night time low.

Once the animal is settled it should continue feeding with no problems. In this species I have noticed the speed of growth slows considerably after 24 months. Most animals (of the Northern or golden morph) are sexually mature from 48” onwards as long as they carry sufficient body weight. This species does reach 5-6ft in the northern morph (the most commonly seen in captivity, the larger Southern morph is some what harder to come by and my experience with them is limited to only three male specimens). Stories of 7 ft Northern are heard of but I am still to see one (not to say that they don’t exist).

This is where they may be a sticking point for some people who have read this so far and think “way-hey I’ll get myself a pair of White Lips”. Think, these snakes are known to be bad tempered, especially wild caught specimens. Even captive bred animals can have temper close to the devil himself! There are occasions, although infrequent, where these animals will become 85-90% tame (never commit yourself to trusting the snake 100%, that is where mistakes happen!). Always keep these snakes at arms length they have a nasty habit of striking towards the face. It is this temper that makes them excellent feeders. Because they are so high strung and so strike happy when you are feeding your charge with its meal and it has wrapped its prey, FREEZE! – If you move the snake will almost certainly drop its prey and start re-striking at you! This may seem stupid reading this but honest to god it is what I experience year in, year out as I deal with around 20 heads of this species annually.

The Adult animals should be transplanted into a large tank measuring 24”x24”x18” (WxHxD). This should be plenty, if you keep them in a naturalistic manner keep well planted so as to offer refuge, the same heating principles can be implemented but use a more powerful bulb from the range, probably a 100w just to be on the safe side. These animals should only ever be housed singly as they do have aggressive tendencies and thin skin, serious injuries can result from keeping pairs or groups together permanently.

Not discussed here are the people who wish to keep them in a breeding style rack enclosure. This species of snake will need to migrate through approximately 3 stages of box. For ease I will use sizes of really useful box©. Babies can start life in a 3 litre box. The confined nature of the box will provide security and as a result you will get a better breeding response. I would keep this species in this box for as long as possible as they thrive on secure enclosures. The next stage of box would be a 35 litre box. The snake can be maintained in this box until it is nearly 3ft in length. The final box is the 84 litre box. The latter two boxes should be provided with permanent branches of either plastic or wood for the snake to perch. These snakes will use an opportunity to drape over branches on occasion. Conversely, they also enjoy to burrow so provide a deep litter of substrate or damp paper (dependant on the setup type you choose.). Heating is provided by heat strip pads controlled by a reliable thermostat. Make sure other species housed in the rack along side require the same temperatures so that you do not have to make compromises.

May I wish all keepers of White Lipped Pythons good look in the adventure that is maintaining this species, they are thoroughly rewarding as captives and it is hard to find an animal that eclipses the iridescent beauty of these taxa.

I do hope that this paper has been of some use.

Regards Charles Thompson

Owner @ Snakes’N’Adders

ADULT AVERAGE LENGTH: The average adult length of the animals we have encountered here at Snakes’N’Adders varies from 4-5ft in length. This species (the Northern form) can grow to 6ft (rarely more). The larger Southern form grows larger with a maximum size of 8-9ft. Although my experience is limited to three 4ft male specimens, hence why all information above must be considered only for the Northern or golden race.

DISTRIBUTION: The snakes we aquire arrive on Indonesian shipments only (unless captive bred – rarely). There are no specifics given to the exact locality they are collected from. I would assume Northern Papua New Guinea, West Papua in the Northern Range, Sorong and other Northern Islands.

HABITAT: Tropical forest, often near water, will climb readily

BREEDING: This species have been bred following our published breeding techniques on Cycling Tropical Boid Species.

KEEPER LEVEL (& REASONING): I think because of the fragile nature of the neonatal White Lipped Pythons it is only right that I should class these as Experienced Level Animals. We would certainly recommend you have kept other hardier species first such as Macklocks Pythons (Liasis Macklocki) and their cousin the Savu Island Python (Liasis M Savuensis). Other species to consider before White Lipped Pythons would be Blood Pythons (Python Curtus Ssp) (Any of the forms) or carpet pythons (Morelia Ssp). (Although Carpets won’t really be a challenge that may not prepare you well enough to keep White Lipped Pythons).